Feliz Navidad

Reading: The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay by Michael Chabon

Posing for the Holidays

Discúlpame, dear readers, as it has been over a month since I last posted. With Christmas right around the corner, I have been rather busy with work, visiting amigas, despididas, street dances, getting ready for my mom, aunt, and uncle to visit, and planning a trip to the Galápagos with my dad and step-mom.

A few quick things:

• I finally hiked El Altar, which has been on my ecua-bucket list for a while. Despite all the horrible stories I have heard about bad weather and knee deep mud, we had absolutely gorgeous weather for our entire hike. Besides getting to enjoy a bit of snow in December, we were graced with morning sundogs—one of my favorite natural phenomena and something I only thought existed on the Great Plains, Scandinavia, and Siberia.
• At a very gringo-y Thanksgiving, I attempted to make lefse, in honor of the great state of South Dakota. It hardly turned out the way that I had intended it to, that is, like how my family makes it. But people swore it tasted good... probably because they have never had legitimate lefse. Their loss, my gain. 

Inti Raymi

Reading: The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Díaz

Andean flute players, Cotacachi

When you google image search “Ecuador,” the first picture that pop up aside from the maps is an idyllic scene of an indigenous market. The second – traditionally dressed indigenous children riding a llama. It’s a justifiable assumption that first thought to come to mind when one thinks of Ecuador is a picturesque Andean scene, with snowcapped volcanoes and high-cheeked, fedora-wearing people (the general American population does not remember that Ecuador is home to the Galapagos). To be fair, it is a rational supposition, given that a third of the country could more or less be accurately described as so.

One of the perks of being in the Peace Corps is that, as a volunteer, we are often placed in the less known and less visited (and consequently, less idealized) parts of the country. That is to say, neither Chimbo nor Paccha fit the above description. Which is probably why neither make it on the typical “backpacker’s map.” Justified for the former and a shame for the latter.

A Pelar un Chancho

Reading: Land and Taxation edited by Nicolaus Tideman

A year ago, I wrote a post about the difficulties of giving up five years of being a vegetarian and embracing meat upon arriving in Ecuador (give or take a few months). Honestly, I’m not a very good meat eater. Living on my own allows me, as it did in the States, to cook as I please, which means that I have yet to buy meat in the market and still cannot tell you when a chicken breast is fully cooked. Granted, I now have random cravings for shawarma on the Malecón in Guayaquil, for a hamburger at La Cigale in Cuenca, or for a Peruvian civiche in Machala but aside from that life as an omnivore is not much different than life as a vegetarian. Except when I get invited to places.

Viva Carnaval!

Reading: Gulliver's Travels by Jonathan Swift

February means "summer" vacations (for the coast), hot weather, rainy season and CARNAVAL!

Foam wars, an integral part of Carnaval

This is perhaps the most fun and ridiculous holiday that I have ever experienced - really, it's a shame we don't celebrate it state side save New Orleans. Basically, it's a three day long free for all involving spray foam, water balloons, buckets, flour and eggs (nice clothes and cell phones not recommended.) Although, I have been told that it's really only celebrated at full force in select towns, otherwise Carnaval is nothing more than some rowdy kids throwing water balloons at passing motos.

Dia de difuntos

Reading: American Pastoral by Philip Roth

Cemetery in Tumbaco

Holidays down here always make for an interesting cultural experience. Many of them line up as far as timing, since they are often the left overs of Christian traditions, but the manner and extent to which they are celebrated varies greatly between Ecuador and the States. Halloween in the States marks the beginning of our "consumer holidays" - merchandise is cycled from Octobers witches to Novembers turkeys to Decembers santas.

In Ecuador, however, there are no costumes, youthful trick-o-treaters or drunken college parties to celebrate All Hallows Eve. Instead the emphasis falls on el dia del difuntos, the day of the dead. Whereas few Americans would think of visiting the cemetery for Halloween (I mean, whats Memorial Day for?) Ecuadorian tradition involves spending the day visiting the graves of loved ones and saying rosaries for them while attending mass.

Fiestas

Reading: East of Eden by John Steinbeck

Typical Ecuadorian fiesta

Well, this is the weekend of the fiestas of Milagro, so I figured that this would be a good time to elaborate a little on what exactly is involved with an Ecuadorian fiesta, specifically those that are hosted by a community/city. Warning: this may get a little graphic… if you’re particularly attached to roosters, you might want to skip this one.

Anyway, the best comparisons that I have for fiestas here is like a county fair… or for a bigger city like Milagro, think state fair. Anyway, the fiesta is held on the date the community was founded but the shenanigans usually start several weeks before that date, with the finally weekend of dancing, drinking and debauchery.